Bras minimize jiggling and shape the appearance of a girl's
breasts. They're also helpful from a health standpoint. Wearing
the right bra keeps a girl's breasts supported while she's
playing a sport and can help prevent injury to breast tissue. A
well-fitting bra is also important for a woman's posture,
particularly if she has large breasts. A bra that doesn't fit
can cause back problems, muscle tension, and even headaches.
Yet 8 out of 10 women wear bras that don't fit.
All About Straps, Snaps, Bands, and Cups
Finding the right bra doesn't have to be an ordeal if you
know the basics of bra sizing. There are two parts to a bra's
size: the chest size (also called the band size) and the cup
size.
The chest, or band, size is the part of the bra that runs across
a girl's chest and around her back. The cups are the parts of
the bra that hold the breasts. Bras come in many sizes, which are
different combinations of the chest sizes (shown as numbers - in
the United States, these are 32, 34, 36, etc.) and cup sizes (shown
as letters - AA, A, B, C, etc.)
It's important to get both the chest and cup sizes right to
ensure a proper fit. If a girl wears a bra that's the wrong
chest size, the bra's band will either feel tight and
uncomfortable around her rib cage or it will be too loose and ride
up her breasts. Bras that are too small in the cup will compress
the breasts and force them to bulge out the sides (think
armpit boobs). And cups that are too big can wrinkle and pucker,
which won't look good under clothes.
Measuring at Home
So how do you calculate your chest and cup measurements?
It's easy, and it's something you can do in the privacy of
your own room at home. All that you need is a tape measure.
Chest measurement.
Bra fitting experts offer two methods of calculating the chest
measurement. The most common method involves running a tape measure
just
under
your breasts, all the way around your back and rib cage. The tape
measure should rest flat on your skin and lie straight across your
back - not so tight that it digs in, but not so loose that it sags
down in back. Make a note of your measurement and add 5 inches.
That's your chest size.
You can also estimate your chest size by running a tape measure
across your chest
above
your breasts, under your armpits, and around your back (measure
from the same back position as in the first chest measurement
option). This method is easier because you don't have to do any
addition or other calculation, but some people feel it's less
accurate than using the first method.
If your chest measurement comes out as an odd number (such as 31
inches or 33 inches), it's usually a good rule to round up to
the next number. Most bras have a few sets of adjustable hooks and
eyes, so you can adjust the tightness. It's a good idea to
round
up
, rather than round down, because when you buy a new bra that hooks
on the first or middle hooks - rather than on the last - you can
leave room for growth.
Cup measurement.
As with the chest measurement, when you're measuring for cup
size, make sure the tape is not too loose or too tight. If you
already own an
unpadded
bra that fits well, wear it when measuring for cup size. Be careful
about the type of bra you wear to take your measurements, though.
Sports bras can flatten breasts and give a cup reading that's
too small, and padded or lined bras have the opposite effect.
This time, when you run the tape measure around your body,
you're going to take the measurement across the
fullest
part of your breasts. Write down this number. Now subtract your
chest measurement. If the difference between the two numbers is
less than 1 inch, your cup size is AA. If it's 1 inch, your cup
size is A; 2 inches, you're a B; 3 inches you're a C, and
so on.
So you've taken your measurements and you're in the
fitting room trying a bra in what's supposed to be your size -
but it doesn't seem to fit. Now what?
Before you pile on all your clothes just to go out and look for
a different size, experiment by making some adjustments to the bra.
If the bra has an adjustable closure, extend or shorten the band
slightly by moving the hooks to a different spot or adjusting the
velcro if the bra has a velcro closing. The bottom band of a
properly fitting bra should ride across the middle of your back and
pass under your shoulder blades to provide the right support.
A bra's straps allow you to modify how the cups fit and
support your breasts. When the straps are the right length, a bra
lifts the breasts comfortably and the back of the bra will run
straight across your back (if a bra is pulling upward in the back,
it may be a sign that the straps are too tight). You should be able
to get one finger under the straps to prevent them from digging
into your shoulders. In general, girls who are petite will need to
wear their bra straps shorter than girls who are tall.
Bra Booby Traps
In addition to fit, there are some other things you might want
to take into account when choosing a bra.
Breast growth.
A girl's breasts can grow and change rapidly during the teen
years, which means that until you stop developing, you might have
to change your bra size several times. If your breasts are still
growing, consider buying fewer bras and measure yourself frequently
to double-check your size.
Because growth can make a girl's breasts sensitive, you
might find certain styles or fabrics work better for you. For
example, some girls like seamless cups because they don't
irritate the nipples; others choose styles that minimize jiggle to
ease the occasional aches of breast development.
Menstrual changes.
Some girls' breasts change size or shape at different times in
their menstrual cycles. Many girls find they like to wear different
styles of bras at different times in their cycle.
Different-sized breasts.
Most girls' breasts grow at different rates - and many girls
find themselves with one boob that's bigger than its partner.
This is so common that bra manufacturers design their products so
they can be adjusted to accommodate asymmetrical breasts. Start by
moving the strap adjusters on a bra to different lengths to see if
this helps.
Some girls also use the trick of buying a bra that has removable
padding and then taking the extra padding out of the cup for the
larger breast. Push-up bras can work well for this because they
often come with an easily removable padded section (called a
"cookie") that sits under the breast.
Hooks, wires, and other hazards.
Take a look at the bra you're about to buy and imagine how it
might survive a full day of wear. If the front closure pops open
too easily, could this bra let you down in front of your entire
drama class? The bra's straps may feel fine in the fitting
room, but if the adjusters are sitting right on your shoulder or
collarbone, how will that feel under your backpack?
Test to see if the bra band is too loose by lifting your arms in
the air and putting them back down by your sides a couple of times.
If the bra rides up across your breasts, the band is too loose. If
you're looking for a sports bra, jump up and down in the
fitting room a couple of times to evaluate the bra's bounce
control.
You may also want to try on a T-shirt or sweater over a bra
you're thinking of buying to get the finished effect. That pink
rose on the front may look cute on the bra itself, but does it make
you look as if you've sprouted a third breast once your
T-shirt's on?
No matter what the size or shape of a girl's breasts, the
most important thing to remember in choosing a bra is comfort. Try
on a variety of bras to find the one that's right for you. Some
girls prefer the comfort of cotton, others like the support of
synthetics or underwires. There are minimizer bras for girls
who'd like their breasts to look smaller, or padded bras for
girls who'd like a little extra shape. No one bra is better
than another - it all depends on which style works best for
you.
Reviewed by:
Larissa Hirsch, MD
Date reviewed: November 2006
Originally reviewed by:
Elizabeth A. Wigod
Note: All information is for educational purposes only. For specific medical advice,
diagnoses, and treatment, consult your doctor.
© 1995-2009 The Nemours Foundation/KidsHealth. All rights reserved.